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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.